How to Build a Wardrobe

If your place is lacking decent storage, there’s no need to fork out the big bucks for a fancy new wardrobe. And making one on castor wheels allows you to move it around, no worries. we’ll show you how to make one yourself, Easy As.

In order to make this unit a little easier to manoeuvre into a bedroom it is made in 2 pieces, and it is designed to be made from 4 sheets of ply.

The overall dimensions are 1.2m wide, this is the width of a standard sheet of ply, and it is 2.0m high. The larger side is 800mm wide, the smaller side is 396mm wide, and it is 585mm deep. That way you can get 2 pieces out of a 1200mm sheet.

Cut Ply

• Use this cutting list, mark out, and pre-cut all your pieces.
• Make sure you have a sharp pencil for accuracy.
• It’s also a good idea to give each piece a light sand at this stage, because once constructed, it’s difficult to access every surface.
• Make sure you label each piece as you go.
• If you don’t have a bench saw or a plunge saw to cut a perfect line, then you can clamp a straight edge to the ply and run a circular saw along this.
• Alternatively you can ask the staff at the Mitre10 drive through if they can cut it up for you.

CUTTING LIST

Unit 1 – Large

• Sides: 18mm ply - 585mm x 2.0m (x2)
• Top, bottom, shelf 1: 18mm ply - 764mm x 585mm (x3)
• Shelf 2: 18mm ply 764mm x 300mm (x1)
• Back: 10mm ply - 800mm x 2.0m (x1)

Unit 2 – Small

• Sides: 18mm ply - 585mm x 2.0m (x2)
• Top, bottom, 3 shelves: 18mm ply - 360mm x 585mm (x5)
• Back: 10mm ply – 396mm x 2.0mm (x1)

Unit 1 – Mark screw lines

• Have a look at your ply, and decide which is the best side to face out.
• Start with the two sides from unit 1 (the big unit) and lay them side-by-side, ready to mark out the position of our shelves. We will be transferring the measurements across both pieces. It will also be easier to pre-drill some of the holes at this stage.
• Mark up 250mm from the bottom of the sheet for shelf 1, the full shelf, and 500mm up for shelf 2, the shorter shelf. This marks where the bottom of the shelves will sit.
• Mark the centreline of our shelves. Our sheets are 18mm thick, so measure up a further 9mm, and rule a line right across both sides – this will be the screw line.
• Shelf 2 is half-shelf at 300mm deep. Mark the centreline of this shelf 300mm in from each outer side, not the whole way across.
• Mark screw lines for the top and bottom panel. These will be 9mm from the top and bottom edges.

Pre drill holes

• Predrill your holes using a countersinking drill bit. This will help hide the screws from view, and the holes will be filled with the wooden plugs, and sanded smooth.
• For the top, bottom, and large shelf drill 2 holes 40mm in from each side, and evenly space 2 more holes between them – giving you 4 holes.
• For the shorter shelf drill holes 40mm from each end of your screw line, and one in the middle – giving you 3 holes.

ASSEMBLY

The assembly for both units is exactly the same, the only difference being the shelving layout.

Unit 1

• Lay the bottom and one side on their edges and position them together. Make sure they are flush, and predrill through your existing screw holes, into the bottom piece.
• Apply PVA glue to the side.
• Screw the two pieces together.
• Wipe off any excess glue with a wet rag.
• Now repeat this process for the top and the other side.
• Next attach the shelves. You can either transfer the marks from the side, around to the inside, or cut yourself a block for the shelves to sit against whilst screwing.

• Flip the unit over ready to attach the back.
• Apply PVA to the back edges, and place the back panel on.
• Mark lines 9mm in from each side. These are your screw lines.
• Pre-drill a hole every 250mm.
• Screw in place, placing a screw every 250mm.
• Start on one of the long sides.
• Make sure it’s square and flush as you go.
• Transfer your centreline from shelf 1 onto the back, and screw.
• Attach your castor wheels to each corner with 25mm screws on the outside edges, and shorter 16mm screws with a fat head on the inside (so they don’t go through the ply).
• Insert the wooden plugs into each screw hole, using PVA. Tap them in with a hammer, and wipe away any excess glue. Allow them to dry before sanding them down flush with the ply.
• Fix in closet rod holders (19mm round flanges) 100mm down from the top of the wardrobe and fit the rod in place.

Unit 2

Unit 2 is assembled using the exact same techniques. You may choose to have more or less shelves, or you may want to place them in different positions. Ours are placed 300mm, 600mm, and 900mm down from the top.

FIX UNITS TOGETHER

Take the units into the room, clamp them together and fix every 400mm using 8g x 30mm screws.

SAND & WHITEWASH

• Sand the entire unit down to a smooth finish with an orbital sander. Ensure all sharp edges have been sanded smooth.
• Paint, stain or white wash to desired finish. Make sure you test it out on an offcut of ply first; to make sure you’re happy with the colour.

FIT UNIT TO THE WALL

• If you live in an earthquake prone area it’s a good idea to fix the wardrobe to the wall.
• Roll the unit in place and use a 100mm bracket fixed to the top of unit and to a solid fixing in the wall, or screw straight through the back into the studs in your wall.