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A solid dining table is essential for any home. Used for everyday meals, homework, games and entertaining, many a memory is created around the dining room table. Build your own to create a special piece of furniture as well as those special moments.
We’re making our table from a timber tongue and groove door. The standard height for a table is 750mm, the width and length of your table could vary depending on what size door you have.
The door we are using is 40mm thick, so the legs are going to be 710mm high to create a standard height table of 750mm.
To begin, make yourself a template with a piece of scrap board. It needs to be 710mm high and the width of your table top (door). On the template, rule two diagonal lines from corner to corner to find the centre of the board. Measure 40mm away from either side of your diagonal lines and rule more diagonal lines to run parallel to your previous ones. Our legs are 80 x 80mm which is why we are measuring 40mm out. Once you’ve ruled all the lines you’ll have a template that shows the table leg pattern and width. This can be used to work out the length of the legs and end shape (see image 1).
To work out the length of the legs and end shape, lay the first leg on the template in line with the outer diagonals and mark the corner angle on the underside of both ends of the leg; this will show you where you need to cut the legs.
Now mark the position where the legs will intercept (this should be where the two outside diagonal lines meet the wood), and then mark half the width of the leg (40mm) in between these leg width marks; this gives you the half check (rebate) that you need to cut to be able to fit the two legs together to form an X shape. Continue the leg width measurement the rest of the way around the leg.
To remove the rebate, score along the width lines on the top of the leg using a utility knife; this will help the hand saw to start cutting. Then cut all the way down to the 40mm line on both sides with a handsaw. Next, cut fins down the rest of the rebate, you can continue to use your hand saw or use a circular saw; just set the circular saw to the right depth and cut carefully. Then use a chisel and hammer to take the fins out by marking a line along the edges on both sides and then levering out the fins. Tidy up the rebate using the chisel. You need to cut a 40mm rebate on both legs.
To cut the legs to length, use a drop saw (you could also use a tenon saw.) Repeat the whole process with the other leg. Then place the sets of legs together and check they sit flush.
Prepare your table top by stripping back your door with a paint scraper and then sanding it down to create the desired finish.
Next, attach the legs to the door. To do this you must create two L shaped leg brackets. To make a bracket, cut a 60 x 20mm baton and a 90 x 20mm baton and join them together using PVA glue and five evenly spaced 50mm counter sunk screws. Cut a 45° angle on the outer edges of the 90 x 20mm baton, so that it follows the edge of the table leg.
To attach the brackets to the door, mark a line down the middle of the base baton and then an intercept line to mark the centre of each of the door boards. Pre-drill holes at these marks for the screws. Apply PVA glue to the base of the leg bracket and screw into place. Ensure the bracket is flush against the leg.
To fix the legs to the table we are going to use a 12mm bolt all the way through the centre of the legs and bracket. Clamp the bracket and legs and pre-drill a 13mm hole through the centre of the bracket into the leg. If you are working with hardwood, you can start off with a smaller hole first which will make it easier to drill the larger hole. Then place the 12mm galvanised coach bolt through the hole and loosely tighten into place. Attach the leg at the other end by repeating this process.
Now we are going to fit a table edge. This will sit around the outside of the door. We’ve used an old 60 x 20mm weatherboard and rounded the outer two edges to give a soft edge to the table. Cut to length, then use a router to round the edges. Then use PVA glue and nails to fix in place. Evenly space out the nails and remember to pre-drill the holes for the nails. Wipe off any excess glue to ensure it doesn’t show up when you apply your finishing coat. Lightly sand the table to take off any rough marks, glue or pencil markings then dust off before applying a finishing coat.
