
How to line interior walls
This is a fair sized job, but don’t be put off, it is still something that’s within the capabilities of a competent handyman.
This is a fair sized job, but don’t be put off, it is still something that’s within the capabilities of a competent handyman.
Congratulations, if you’re looking into lining walls then you’re a proper DIYer. This is a fair sized job, but don’t be put off, it is still something that’s within the capabilities of a competent handyman. Follow the process step-by-step through this guide and before you know it you’ll be inviting your friends around to admire your work.
Matched linings or lath and plaster (plaster laid over timber) or, in some cases plasterboard, often provide structural bracing as well as a finish to a wall. In this case an engineer or builder will be required before replacement. If there is any doubt when removing old linings consult a professional.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When plasterboard is required to provide bracing performance, this is now “Restricted Building Work” and must be carried out or supervised by a Licensed Building Practitioner.
Plasterboard is a finishing material and as such should be treated with care. Do not walk or sit on stacks of plasterboard. Carry plasterboard on its edge. Apart from being easier to carry, sheets are less likely to crack or break. When taking sheets from a stack, avoid dragging a sheet across the one below it as this can damage the face paper.
The sheets should be stacked in neat flat stacks, clear of the floor, to avoid damage to edges, ends and surfaces. Stacks of plasterboard should be limited to stacks of 20 sheets on non-concrete floors to minimise the risk of structural damage due to point loading. If plasterboard is being stored on new concrete floors the plasterboard should be elevated to prevent it from picking up moisture from the concrete or on a piece of waterproof polythene sheet.
Preparation is paramount to achieving a good finish. Take the time to ensure that the surface is as flat and straight as possible before applying plasterboard.
Fix the plasterboard horizontally. This will ensure that joints are below eye-level and as a result any imperfections are more difficult to see. Any glancing light from windows or lights is less likely to show a shadow line if joints are finished slightly raised. Screwing and gluing reduces the number of mechanical fixings in the face of the board, decreasing the number of possible imperfections from problems such as ‘popping’ which are often caused by wet timber.
When fixing horizontally, using taper edge/square edge board makes subsequent installation of skirting and cove/cornice easier.
If end joints are required when fixing horizontally, these should be staggered a minimum of one stud apart, 600mm. Stud spacing should be at a maximum of 600mm.
For older, existing homes, stud spacing may require that plasterboard sheets be trimmed when fixing vertically. Horizontal # fixing is the preferred method.
NEVER make joints above or below or within 200mm of the corners of windows or doors.
For openings such as an electrical outlet or switch box use the following method.
The best practise for fixing plasterboard involves the use of plasterboard screws and glue. Plasterboard screws are used around the perimeter of the sheet and glue should be used in other areas that contact wall framing.
Use GIBFix® All Bond or GIBFix® One for the appropriate surface. Make sure that the framing is clean and free from oil, dirt or a combination of the two. Apply adhesive using a gun at the appropriate spacing. A glue daub approximately the diameter of the framing timber stud should be used. Fix the sheet immediately after applying the glue to avoid the glue from ‘skinning’, resulting in poor adhesion.
Hold the sheet tight against the framing. Sink plasterboard screws to just below the sheet surface, leaving the paper intact.
When fixing vertically, start at a window or door and cut the first sheet to fit so that any joins are further than 200mm from the corner of the window or door. Also ensure that joins extend a minimum of 200mm beyond the corner of the edge of the window or door.
For best practise, architraves should be used. However, if the use of grooved jambs is unavoidable there are a couple of tips to remember to help achieve the best results.
To join sheets at an internal corner, butt the second sheet against the first and fasten the second sheet to the stud.
To join sheets at an external corner, lap the end of the second board over the end of the first. Make sure the sheets overlap neatly and that the second board does not extend past the face of the first. Fasten both sheets to a common stud. After sheets have been fixed in position, fix metal or plastic external corners in place to provide a clean edge for stopping. These will protect the edges of the plasterboard and also make stopping easier.
Ensure that all fixings, screws or nails are seated below the surface of the plasterboard. Fill any areas greater than 2mm deep with a setting compound such as Gib Tradeset® and leave to dry.