
How to fix GIB to ceilings
GIB® Living® represents a holistic approach to interiors by taking into account issues such as ventilation, heating and noise.
GIB® Living® represents a holistic approach to interiors by taking into account issues such as ventilation, heating and noise.
GIB® Living® represents a holistic approach to interiors by taking into account issues such as ventilation, heating and noise control to create a living environment that is quiet, more comfortable and healthier, as well as more durable and easy to maintain.
A range of different plasterboards are produced, each with different properties that help solve common household issues. Table 1 sets out these products, their properties and applications.
You cannot make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
Table 1: Zone Selector
GIB® Dry Zone® | Fire rated GIB Aqualine® | |
---|---|---|
Superior protection from steam and moisture damage | Bathroom, ensuite, toilet, kitchen and laundry | Contains special wax polymers to help prevent water absorption |
GIB Quiet Zone® | GIB Noiseline® | |
Using two layers helps reduce the noise entering through walls and ceiling | Bedrooms, study and TV room | Stronger, higher density and more rigid core. Much tougher than standard plasterboard |
GIB Toughzone® | GIB Toughline® | |
Improved durability and greater resistance to damage | Stairway, hall, rumpus room, garage and children’s bedroom | Twice as tough as standard plasterboard due to high density core and fibreglass mesh |
GIB Feature Zone® | GIB Ultraline® | |
Superior smoother looking ceilings and walls | Ceilings and walls in feature areas such as lounge and dining areas | Finer, smoother, resin coated face paper |
GIB FireGuard Zone® | GIB Fyreline® | |
Added protection for expensive assets in the home | Kitchens and other “at risk” areas | High density core for up to 4 hours extra protection in the event of fire |
Many of these can be combined in the same area or room. For more information about this contact the GIB® Helpline on 0800 100 442.
Preparation is paramount to achieving a good finish. Take the time to ensure that the surface is as flat and straight as possible before applying plasterboard.
Plasterboard is a finishing material and as such should be treated with care. Do not walk or sit on stacks of plasterboard. Carry plasterboard on its edge. Apart from being easier to carry, sheets are less likely to crack or break.
When taking sheets from a stack, avoid dragging a sheet across the one below it as this can damage the face paper. Consider using a mechanical board lifter when fixing plasterboard sheets to a ceiling. These can be hired from most hire outlets or specialist stores.
The sheets should be stacked in neat flat stacks, clear of the floor, to avoid damage to edges, ends and surfaces. Stacks of plasterboard should be limited to stacks of 20 sheets on non-concrete floors to minimize the risk of structural damage due to point loading. If plasterboard is being stored on new concrete floors the plasterboard should be elevated or stored on a piece of waterproof polythene sheet to prevent it from picking up moisture from the concrete.
For openings such as a light fitting use the following method. DO NOT use a hammer to create the hole.
The best practise for fixing plasterboard involves the use of screws and glue. Screws are used around the perimeter of the sheet and glue should be used in the other areas that contact battens.
Use sheets that are the full length of the room, if possible, so that no end joints are formed. If ‘end’ joints must be formed then these should be staggered.
Battens should be fixed at right angles to the trusses or joists. Where trusses or joists change direction within a room, battens should be fixed in one direction only. This may require additional nogs or dwangs between trusses. Plasterboard sheets should be fixed at right angles to the battens.
Battens should be placed at a maximum of 600mm centres when using 13mm plasterboard. If 10mm plasterboard is used, battens should be spaced at a maximum of 450mm centres. Back-blocking will be required on the edge (longitudinal) joints where the room is wider than six sheets (7.2m) on metal battens and four sheets (4.8m) on timber battens.
Screwing is the preferred method of fixing. Nails must NOT be used when fixing plasterboard to metal battens.
If end joints in a room cannot be avoided then back-blocking will need to be done. Back-blocking is a practise that strengthens the joints between plasterboard sheets by creating an artificial taper at the ends of sheets. It consists of laminating strips of plasterboard to the back surface of GIB® sheets directly behind the joints using GIB Cove® Adhesive. Due to its flexibility do not use GIBFix or any other panel adhesive for back-blocking. For back-blocking, butt joints in ceilings with easy access - this can be done after the ceiling has been installed.
Jointing (stopping) plasterboard is a skill that requires some practise. Because of this, you should consider the services of an experienced tradesman. Not only will they achieve a better finish, which is important when painting walls, but they will finish the work more quickly and with less fuss.
Should you wish to try this yourself then take a look at the Joint GIB® Plasterboard How to Guide for more tips and information. Also in this guide is some further information on decorating plasterboard. Paint systems should always be applied in accordance with the paint manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: Whilst the advice and recommendations contained in this brochure have been produced with proper care, they are offered only with the object of assisting those interested in or involved with the fixing of plasterboard. Winstone Wallboards Ltd and BRANZ do not accept responsibility for the advice, recommendations, etc., contained herein.