Step-By-Step Process

Decide what side of the fence you’re going to hang your gate from, and which way you want your fence to open.

Measure the distance between the two posts to help determine your gate width. Measure the width at both the top and bottom, and use the smallest of the two measurements.

Depending on how thick your gate is will dictate how much you will need to allow for clearance. Generally allowing 15 to 20mm clearance for a gate that is approx. 75 to 100mm thick will be enough.

You may want to choose a lock and hinges for the gate before working out the dimensions, as these may affect the size and styling of the gate.

Gate Frame

Measure the height of your gate frame. This is determined by the height of your fence, and the position of your existing fence rails. Generally the gate frame should be shorter in height than the overall finished height. The pickets/palings should overhang past the frame by approx. 100mm top and bottom. So for example: if the overall height of the finished gate is 1.8m then the gate frame should be approx. 1.6m. If you have a fence with the rails exposed on one side then you may want to build your gate frame so the rails line up with the fence rails.

For any gate over 1m in height it’s best to include a mid rail within the frame.

Adding a diagonal brace is also a good idea, it will help keep the gate square and will also hold the weight of the gate by transferring the weight to the post.

Determine the position of your middle rail. Measure from the top of the highest fence rail, to the bottom of the middle fence rail.

Cutting & Assembly of Gate

If, for example, our gap between the posts in the fence is 900mm and we subtract 20mm for clearance then our overall width of the gate is 880mm. The overall height is 1.8 less 100mm x 2 = 1.6, so now we have or dimensions to start cutting the 75 x 50 timber.

Square-cut your 2 sides, and 3 rails to your measurements.

On the ends of the timber we want to create a rebate. We will be 1/2 checking them so the timber overlaps each other, resulting in a very strong joint that will help stop the gate moving or twisting.

Cutting the 1/2 Check

Lay an offcut on the ends of the cut pieces and mark a pencil line (the width of the 75 x 50). Rule a line 1/2 the thickness on the ends as well.

Most mitre saws have a lever to flip over to use for rebating or 1/2 checking, if you have one of these set the blade depth to the pencil line and rebate out. If you don’t have one of these, then you could also use a circular saw, by setting the blade to the depth and make a series of cuts, then use a chisel to clean up the join.

Take the 2 side pieces and divide the length in half (1.6m divided by 2 = 800mm), place the offcut over the centre mark and rule lines so a 1/2 check can also be made for the centre rail.

Create a rebate on both side pieces of timber at the position your middle rail will be.

Dry fit your timber together, without any glue, to make sure all your joins fit. Use a pair of sash clamps to squeeze the frame together, to ensure a tight fit. Now measure the diagonals, making sure the measurements are exactly the same to ensure your gate will be square.

Mix together some two-pot glue and apply it to your joins. Two pot glue is stronger and more waterproof than other glues, and will help create a sold join.

Assemble the frame, and clamp it in place.

Pre-drill your joins, and screw into place using 2 x 38mm stainless screws per join.

Double check your diagonals, and make any necessary adjustments as you go.

Lightly hammer the joins together to ensure it sits flush.

At this stage do not apply any glue to the mid rail, however screw it in place.

Cutting the Brace

Lay the 75 x 50 brace piece diagonally across the frame, keeping in mind that the brace should run from the bottom hinge side up to the opposite corner.

Rule pencil lines on each end of the brace, and also where the brace intersects the mid rail. Ensure to mark the mid rail for another rebate. Cut angles on the ends and 1/2 check out mid rails joint.

Apply glue to the ends and the 1/2 check join, now place in the frame.

Drill in a 100mm screw in each end of the brace.

Wipe off any excess glue as you go.

Set frame aside and allow to dry overnight.

Sand up all the joints with an electric sander and give any sharp edges a light sand.

Apply a good quality wood primer to the entire frame.

Attaching the Palings

Using the existing fence as a guide, measure the distance from the top of the fence paling, to the top rail. Cut your gate palings to length, and transfer this measurement to the top of your gate palings.

Space them out evenly on the frame so you achieve a gap of approx. 12 – 20mm or just follow the fence’s spacing. Using a packer cut to the exact spacing width will aid in the screwing off process.

Paint palings with primer if required.

Place a level across the top of the palings to ensure the top of each paling align along a nice straight line.

Mark a line where all screws will be drilled, and secure each paling in place.

Hinging the Gate

Attach hinges to the gate. If you’re using a butt style hinge, then attach it to the side of the frame in line with the rails.

TIP: Don’t check the hinges into the gate frame or fence post - this will give you some scope to work with later if the fence moves and the gate starts rubbing.

If you’re using a “T” Hinge, then just lay the hinge onto the gate where the rails are.

Place the gate into position and put some timber packers underneath to bring gate up to the same height as the fence. Use a straight edge, make sure the top of the gate aligns with the top of the fence.

If using a butt hinge place a pencil mark where the hinges hit the fence post, then open up the gate and screw the hinges to the fence.

If using “T” hinges just ensure the gaps on both sides of the gate are even (using a couple of wedges for this is helpful) and screw the leaf part of the hinge to the post.

Attaching the Latch

Shut the gate and  x the latch to gate then screw on the striker part to the fence post.