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How to build a fixed wooden ladder
Fixed wooden ladders can be pretty handy. They can smarten up a set of bunks, or help you get up to a mezzanine bed.
Before you get into it, make sure you’re building the ladder to suit your needs. So when planning the dimensions of your ladder make sure it’s going to be functional, and safe. As a rule of thumb your ladder should be no more than 600mm wide, and your rungs should be at least 32mm thick.
GETTING IT DONE
Sides
The two lengths of 90x32mm timber will be your sides. Cut them both to the length you’d like your ladder to be.
For aesthetic reasons, you may want to cut one end at a slight angle.
Place one side on top of the other and clamp them together, ready to mark the positions of your rungs.
Start from the bottom of the sides and mark out the position of the rungs up the sides. We’re placing ours every 250mm.
Use a square to transfer the marks around all four sides of the timber.
Handy Hint:
For accuracy, ensure you have a sharp pencil.
Now mark where the centre of your rungs will sit. We’re not centring ours on the sides, we’re placing them further toward the front of the ladder – this allows more space between the wall and your foot when you’re using the ladder against the wall.
Make the same marks on the other side of the timber, as we’ll be drilling in from both sides. If you were to drill straight through the timber it can become chipped and split as the drill breaks through.
Rungs
Cut dowel for rungs to the desired width of your ladder, allow 10mm extra on each side. In this case our ladder will be 500mm wide, so we’re cutting our rungs to 520mm. We’ll cut the excess off after it’s all been glued together.
Cut a 30mm slot into the end of each dowel. We’ll be inserting wedges into them later – this will help compress the dowel inside its hole, and make sure the glue sets properly.
Assembly
Place a 10mm packer under one side of the ladder, and hammer the dowel rungs into the hole. The 10mm packer will ensure the dowel protrudes exactly 10mm through. Place some PVA glue around each hole before inserting the dowels.
We’re now going to fix the other side of the ladder. First, make sure all your rungs are 90° to the side.
A good way to ensure the width of your ladder is perfect, is to cut a set of packers to the desired width of your ladder, and clamp them to the dowels, one at each end, another in the middle.
Hammer the second side on, until it rests against the internal packers.
Place some PVA into the slots of the dowel and hammer in the wedges into each side until they’re firmly in place.
Let the glue dry for 24hrs.
Cut off the excess dowel & wedges with a handsaw. Leave 1mm still protruding, and use a belt sander to sand it down. This’ll give it a good finish. Then give it a finer sand with an orbital sander.
Cut some blocks that will go onto the back of the ladder, ready to attach to your wall or bunks. Use the same timber you made the ladder sides from. Cut four pieces 180mm long, with a 15degree angle either end. Apply PVA, then screw into the back of the ladder with a 150mm bugle screw. Wipe away excess glue, and let it set.
Finish off the sharp edges with a hand plane or an orbital sander.
From here you can stain, varnish, or paint your ladder to suit.
INSTALLATION
If you’re installing the ladder to a set of bunks, position it in place and screw it in from behind.
If you’re installing the ladder onto a wall, then you’ll need a set of brackets to suit, and fix them to something solid.
If you’re unsure how to fix it, check with a licensed building practioner.
