How To Build A Fence - Instructions

Getting Started

Regulations

You can build a fence up to 2.5m high without a permit, but it’s always best to check with your council before starting.

If building on a boundary, you’ll need to talk to your neighbour about its style, costs, and start time. Downloading a copy of the “Fencing Act” may help with these discussions.

Establish boundary and check plans

Accurately establish your property boundary. If you can’t find your boundary pegs, request a copy of your plans from the council, or get a surveyor to correctly establish your boundary.

Check your plans for the location of any pipes.

Call your electricity provider for information on underground wires – as these may not be shown on the plans.

Planning & Materials

Decide what your fence is going to look like, and what kind of materials you’ll be building it out of. Here’s what you’ll need for a standard fence like ours:

Posts:

• Decide your height and choose your posts to suit.
• Use 100mm x 100mm h4 treated rough sawn.
• Space them 2m apart.

Rails:

• Decide if you want these fixed in between the posts or on the front of them.
• Use100 x 50mm H3.2 treated rails rough sawn.
• Use three rails for fence heights above 1.2m high.
• For spans under 1.8m use 75 x 50mm H3.2 treated rails.

Concrete:

• Either builders mix and cement at a ratio of 6:1, or pre-mixed concrete.
• To work out the volume of concrete for a square hole:
  Width x width x depth x number of holes
  eg. 300w x 300w x 450d x 10holes = 0.405m3.
   
• To work out the volume of concrete for a round hole:
  Diameter x diameter x .7854 x depth x number of holes.
  Eg .350mm x .350mm x .7854 x .450mm deep x 10 holes = 0.432m3

Draw a plan:

• Next, measure up and draw yourself a plan, then work out your materials and order them.

Getting It Done Right

Set out

• Decide your height and choose your posts to suit. JJUse 100mm x 100mm h4 treated rough sawn.
• Space them 2m apart.

Dig holes

• Dig holes with a spade or post hole borer to a depth of 600mm. JJClear out any loose material in the holes.

Mitre 10 Handy Hints:

• If you’re using a post hole borer, place a mark 600mm up the auger so you know how deep you’re going.

Brace posts

• Move your stringline from the centre of the post holes, to 50mm away from where the face of your posts will sit. The reason we don’t place this stringline on the face of the posts is because the posts are rough-sawn, and if the stringline was against the post the rough timber can catch on the stringline or push it out – this could affect the straightness of the fence. Then position every post 50mm off the string line, which will be straight.

• Start with your two end posts. Makes sure they are 50mm off the stringline, brace the posts, and ensure they are plumb.
• Run a string line between the two posts to mark your height. If your fence height needs to be level, use a laser level or a long straight edge and level to make sure the stringline is level.
• If your ground isn’t level, this line will also help make sure your posts aren’t too short.
• Place the remaining posts in their holes, 50mm off the string line, and brace them plumb.
• You may need to get a mate to help you hold the posts as you brace them.

Concrete posts

• Next, measure up and draw yourself a plan, then work out your materials and order them.
• Mix concrete as per instructions on the bag.
• Pour the concrete around the posts carefully. Compact the mix with a piece of wood to remove any air pockets.
• Re-check posts are plumb and are sitting 50mm off your stringline. If you’re using quick to set concrete, you will only have a couple minutes to adjust your posts plumb.
• Leave concrete to set for 24 hours, then remove the braces.

Rails

• Mark the position of the rails on your posts with a chalk line.
• Keep rails 150mm up from the bottom and 150mm down from the top.
• Use two rails for fences up to 1200mm high. Use three rails for fence heights above 1200mm. Use 100 x 50mm H3.2 treated rails, and for spans under 1.8m use 75 x 50mm H3.2 treated rails.
• If your ground is uneven, find the highest point and measure up the post from that point for your bottom rail.
• Rails can be fixed either between the posts or to the face of the post depending on fence style.
• For rails fixed between posts the rails should be measured at ground level, squared and cut to length. Check their alignment with your chalk line and ensure the rails are square.
• For face-fixed rails select a rail length that can span three posts.
• Fix rails with 100mm baton purlin screws, or in high wind zones use coach screws. For face-fixed rails use 2, for rails fixed between posts use 3. It’s a good idea to use screws, as they’ll hold the timber together a lot tighter, and more permanently than nails. It’ll also reduce twisting and warping of the timber.
• Use a ratchet strap to pull your posts together when fixing in between posts.

Palings

• Fix palings to rails with galvanised fencing nails. Our boards are 25mm thick, so we’re using 75mm nails. Use 2 nails in each rail so that’s 6 nails per paling. Place them 25mm from each side.
• Place a paling on the ground and sit your palings on top of the board. This will help you keep them from touching the ground.
• In our situation the ground isn’t level, so we’ll be following the contour of the ground, and cutting the top of the palings off, level, when they’re all on.
• If you want to keep your nails in a straight line you can run a stringline and nail along that.
• Push the palings tightly together as you nail them, as they will shrink. Use a hammer and chisel to force the boards as close together as you can.
• Every 5-6 boards check the palings are plumb.
• If your ground is flat, and your palings are cut to length, then place one paling on each end of the fence, then run a stringline across the top to ensure a level line.
• Cut the last paling to width if needed.
• Cut palings to height. Flick a chalk line as a guide and use a circular saw. It’s a good idea to screw a board to the fence to use as a guide, this will give you a nice straight line.

Cut posts to height

• Cut tops off posts on a slight angle using a handsaw. This helps the water drain off the post.