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A chisel is a must have tool for woodwork. There are a few different types available. The size and style of chisel you use will depend on your job.
Used for creating joints. It has bevelled sides and a straight edge and is shorter than other chisels. The bevelled edge helps the chisel to get into acute angles.
Similar to a butt chisel but has a longer blade. Often use by trade professionals
As the name suggests this is only used for carving.
One of the most common uses for a chisel is rebating out a door hinge. You can use a bevelled chisel for this.
We’ll use this job to explain how to use a chisel properly.
On a bevelled chisel the flat side is the back. Always line up the edge of the back side where you are going to chisel and keep the bevelled side facing in. To start off you want to work across the grain as when working along the grain prevents the timber from splitting.
Holding the chisel steady is important for accuracy. Use your fore fingers low down on the back of the chisel to do this. Then when you’re ready strike the top of the chisel to make your indent. Use a hammer only if the chisel has a metal end, if it doesn’t then you should use a wooden mallet to avoid damaging the chisel.
Before beginning to chisel always mark out your lines with a pencil or craft knife. Then mark out your lines with the chisel by lining up the chisel and gently tapping it to create an indent, do this all the way around your line.
You can now start to remove timber. Start a few millimetres away from your line. Make sure the bevel of the chisel is against the surface with the flat part facing up. This will avoid chiselling to deep and ensure the chisel keeps scooping the timber upwards. Gently hammer the chisel to make the wood flick up. You don’t need to fully remove the timber just yet. Move in small steps along the timber flicking up the wood. You don’t need to chisel the full depth first time.
Once you’ve flicked up the timber across the area to be removed you should have a row of fins. Break off the fins and then come back to your line on the edge of the timber and deepen the indent you made previously. Do this by lining up the chisel straight with your line and hammering lightly. Also do this on two end lines to cut off the grain and then on the remaining line through to the depth you want to remove.
Now remove the remaining timber. Do this by scooping up the timber the same way you made the fins previously.
To tidy up, put the hammer down and use the chisel to smooth out the area.
To sharpen, use a bench grinder to remove any rough uneven edges. Put the end of the chisel straight against the grinder to create a 90 degree angle. Move the chisel slowly from side to side. Take your time, as you don’t want to create any hot spots. Dip in cold water as you go to cool it off. Keep checking with the square edge to make sure the end is square.
You can then set the bevel. Use the grinder again but this time work from the short point back to the tip. Put your fore finger on the back of the chisel and keep it there for this. Rest this finger against the guard on the grinder. Move across just a couple of times and check. You are aiming for one smooth line from the back edge to the point so you can’t see any daylight shining on the edge on the chisel. Don’t apply to much pressure as you work and keep dipping it in water as you don’t want it to heat up and cause a weak point in the chisel.
When that’s done, take to your oil stone to put a sharpening edge on the chisel. There is usually a rough side and a smooth side to an oil stone. Use the smooth side as you’ve already put a sharp edge on the chisel and you now just want to finish it off. Put some lubrication on the chisel and then sit the chisel flat so it’s on the bevel. Lift up the chisel so the angle is at least 30 degrees. Move the chisel in a figure of eight motion using the whole stone to get the edge. A burr may form but don’t worry as this can be removed later (a burr is the little bit of material left on the end of the chisel).
Then turn the chisel over and sit it flat on the stone and move back and forward to remove any edge that might be on the back. Now take the burr off. Get some timber and flick the chisel into the end in a downwards motions. You chisel should now be as good as new!
