Instructions

Stylish patios and paths. Strong, long lasting driveways. Good looking, safe pool and spa surrounds. Paving is a convenient, affordable way to add value to your home. The combinations of shape, pattern and colour available make paving an attractive choice for both new homes and improvements to existing homes. With a little planning and preparation, even large areas can be paved to a high standard by the DIY enthusiast. And remember, if you have any questions about your paving project, talk to a staff member at your local Mitre 10 store.

Getting Started:

Plan The Job

Select your preferred paver ensuring it is suitable for your job. Remember, there will be some material loss in cutting and this needs to be accounted for in estimating.

NOTE: Paver number per m² is based on an average joint size of 3mm. Determine and mark the final level, considering runoff from buildings, downpipes and adjacent sections. To avoid “ponding” allow a slope of between 15 and 30mm per metre for good runoff.

Choosing A Laying Pattern

45° Herringbone - Recommended for vehicle use with the main axis aligned with traffic direction. Stretcherbond. Basketweave. It’s important to think about the laying pattern you want as this is just as important as the choice of colour, size and texture. Patterns and fixed edging create the strength in your path or driveway. They prevent paving becoming loose and spreading; particularly on driveways where vehicles are turning and tyres put strain on the individual pavers.

Calculating The Excavation Depth

The paved area will need excavation to the combined total depth of your pavers, compacted bedding sand layer (20 to 30mm) and compacted base course layer (if required). To calculate this depth, excavate a representative area to expose the sub-grade, and do the “heel test”.

NOTE: The maximum aggregate size should be less than 1/3 the depth of the required base course. So if 100mm layer of base course material is required, use gravel with a maximum aggregate size of 33mm. This will allow better compaction of individual layers. On a very weak clay subgrade a geotextile fabric will prevent clay from pushing up into the base material. From the results of the heel test and the thickness of your pavers, calculate the required excavation depth.

Sub-grade Preparation

Remove all top soil and excavate to the required depth. If the excavated surface (sub-grade) requires filling to reach the desired level, use existing organic free material if available. Fill in compacted layers of no more than 100mm, and compact using a plate compactor or rammer. The finished subgrade should match the exact contour chosen for the final paving, within a tolerance of +0 to -20mm at any point.

Base Course Preparation

If the heel test indicated you need a base course, lay this next. It should comprise granular material with hard durable particles free from organic material. The maximum aggregate size of the material should be no more than 1/3 the thickness of the layer. Lay the base course in layers of no more than 100mm and compact to a uniform dense condition, especially around manholes and kerbs.

Edge Restraints

Edge restraints add strength by preventing sideways movement of pavers. Where present, existing paths or structures will suffice. An alternative to these is “haunching”, where the outer pavers are held by concrete starting approximately half way down the side of the pavers and angled down-wards at 45° to a further depth of 100mm.

Prepare The Sand Base

Bedding sand provides support for the pavers, but will not hide irregularities in the base course or sub-grade. It should be well-graded and damp, but not wet. Only spread enough sand for the pavers you’ll lay in one session. Store sand for later use in a covered pile to maintain its moisture level. Use runners and a straight edge to aid screeding. The final compacted sand depth once the pavers are laid should be 30mm. You will generally need to start with between 5 and 10mm more than the desired sand thickness.

Lay The Pavers

Lay the pavers in the chosen pattern, starting from the straightest convenient edge. If you are working on a sloping site then lay pavers up hill. Avoid laying downhill if possible. Maintaining a nominal joint of 3mm between pavers is essential to allow sand penetration and paving performance. If you need to cut pavers for edge filling, use a concrete saw or paving splitter (available from hire centres) or a bolster chisel for smaller areas. Keep vehicles off the paved area until complete and if a loaded wheelbarrow has to cross it, lay timber running boards.

Compact The Pavers

For smaller areas use a rubber mallet to compact. For larger areas use a plate compactor, available from most hire centres. However, do not use a plate compactor on large paving or flagstones as it could cause them to break. Courtyard Flagstones, Grass Pavers and Gobi Blocks should also be compacted with a rubber mallet rather than with a compacter. Once the pavers are compacted, sweep dry joint sand (following the instructions on the bag) into the joints. Go over with a plate vibrator again and repeat the process until all joints are filled. Do not vibrate pavers that are more than 450mm x 450mm as it may cause them to crack. Grass Pavers and Gobi Blocks don’t require jointing sand. Once compacted into place by the rubber mallet, spread topsoil and sow grass seed or, for a different look, fill the voids with decorative pebbles.

Finishing Touches

Joints in pavements with a high traffic volume will seal quite quickly and little further maintenance will be necessary. For areas such as patios or paths where pavers may be vacuum cleaned or washed regularly, joints may need periodic topping up.