Here is a guide on how to make a simple, square coffee table. Of course, my measurements are flexible and can be adjusted to suit your own design. You can also use different timber if you prefer.
 

What You'll Need
 

One x Table sub-top: 20mm MDF Board 600mm x 600mm Four x Sides: Dressed 25mm Radiate pine 25mm x 100mm x 550mm Four x Legs: Dressed Radiate Pine 75mm x 75mm x 300mm   Four x Table Top Edging: Radiation Pine10mm x 30mm x 600mm  Sixteen pieces of 8mm dowel 300mm long.

This illustration (Figure 1) shows the simple construction for this table.    I have called the top at this stage the ‘sub-top’ simply because you may want to cover the plain MDF with an additional finish later on.

Cut Pieces to Size
 

First cut the four side pieces to size. Make your cuts at forty five degrees along the joints so that when they join you will have a nice fit to the corner. (Refer to the diagram showing this angle.)   Next, cut the four legs to size making sure that the cuts are square otherwise you will have a wobbly table.   You will also have to cut the edging with forty five degree corners to fit around the table sub – top.

Sand
 

Now sand all component pieces so that they are smooth to the touch. You can round off the edges of the legs slightly to create a softer effect.

Make the Base
 

Mark two side pieces 45mm in from the joint edges and 20mm from the top and bottom edges. This is where you will drill to fit the joint dowels. (Refer to figure A). These two pieces will be fitted to the opposite sides of the table. The next two will be marked 45mm in from the joint edge and 30mm from the top and bottom edges. This pair will be fitted opposite each other.   Place two of the legs on your work bench, take one of the side pieces and fit it carefully and squarely across the two legs. (Refer figure B). Clamp this configuration tightly in place and drill 8mm holes 32mm deep in the places you have marked. Repeat this with the opposite side piece and two legs. Remove the clamps and clear out any sawdust from the holes you have drilled.

Apply PVA glue to the surface of the legs that are under the side pieces. Match the side pieces to the legs and pour some PVA down the holes (don’t be tempted to fill the holes, just a small amount will do). Tap the dowel pieces into the holes until they are flush with the surface, wipe off any surplus glue using a damp cloth and leave to dry.

When the side pieces are dry stand them on end so that you can fit one of the remaining side pieces in the same manner by drilling, gluing and doweling. When this is dry turn it over and fit the last side piece in place. Leave the whole assembly to dry completely. The result will be a table without a top. (Refer to figure 1).

Carefully sand where the dowel pieces are fitted so that there is little discernable difference with the dowel and the wood of the legs.
  

Fit the Table 'Sub-Top'
 

Now you can fit the table ‘sub-top’ by applying PVA glue to the top of the legs and carefully placing the sub-top onto these legs so that the overlap is constant all around the table.

Using four 40mm panel pins, nail the ‘sub-top’ to the legs. This is only a temporary measure so you should leave the head of the pins proud to enable them to be removed later. When the sub-top is in place, drill (2.5mm) and countersink two holes in the top above and through to each leg. The ideal size screw is number 8 by 30mm. Screw the sub-top to the legs, remove the temporary panel pins and leave to dry.

Fit the Edging & Apply the Finish
 

If you want the MDF board to be the final top for your table, fit the edging, which you cut earlier, around and flush with the top surface using 25mm panel pins and PVA glue. Don’t forget to punch the panel pins below the surface of the edging using a nail punch.

Now you can fill all the screw and nail holes with wood filler. If your choice of finish is paint then you can use any type of wood filler. Sand the whole table to get rid of any imperfections and paint in the usual way using primer, undercoat and top coats for a good finish. If you want to varnish then make sure your wood filler matches the colour of the wood you are using.

Now I have used the term “sub-top” in this article for the MDF board because you can use your imagination and make another more interesting top for your table. An example would be to tile your table top using either large tiles or sheets of mosaic tiles. Do this first and then fit your edging flush with the top of the tiles and varnish all over. Alternatively you could fit the edging so that it sits 5mm proud of the MDF top and then carefully place interesting flat objects like coins, photographs, medals or whatever on the top. Now you can pour a two pot epoxy mixture over the whole top and when it’s dry you will a have real conversation piece! Paint or varnish the rest of the table in the usual manner.

Another finish is to place photographs, interesting documents, newspaper clipping, etc. on the MDF and cover with a sheet of glass.

Remember you are only limited by your own imagination and if you don’t like your first attempt remember that each attempt is only a step on the stairway to perfection!

Written by Chris Bennett