Planting Fruit Trees
 

Position

Choose an open sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. 

Soil

Fruit trees will grow in a wide range of soil types as long as there is good drainage. Plums, pears and trees on plum root stock tolerate heavier soils than most fruit trees. Compost will improve water retention in lighter soils and drainage in heavier soils. It will also improve soil fertility.

When to plant

Fruit trees are planted in winter, while dormant.
 

How to plant Dig a hole that is slightly deeper than the root depth and which allows for 20cm clearance around the roots. Mix some compost with the soil in the base of the hole, then place the tree and slow release fertiliser in the hole so that the graft is above soil level. Create a small mound at the base of the hole and spread the roots out carefully. Before back filling, position tree stakes. Partly back fill and firmly compact. Continue back filling and compact once or twice more. Water well. Bare rooted trees bought in winter must not be left for roots to dry. Plunge in water (for no longer than half a day) prior to planting.

Caring for your fruit trees

Use a well balanced general purpose fertiliser in early spring and in autumn. Sprinkle below the tree’s branches. A slow release fertiliser such as Magamp can be added at planting time.

Watering is very important when establishing new trees, as is regular watering in dry periods over spring and summer. Give occasional deep soakings.

Use Butlers Organic Compost as a mulch. It will conserve moisture, protect roots, add nutrients and prevent the growth of weeds and grass (which compete with trees for soil nutrients).
 

Pruning and Training

Pruning is important. It will encourage renewal of fruiting wood for regular crops of quality fruit, it lets light into the tree, it removes diseased parts and pruning also controls a tree’s height.

During the early stages of tree development, the main goal is to develop the shape and framework which will support the heavy crops of fruit.

Pruning is done in winter when trees are dormant. Make sure secateurs are sharp, and cut just above each growth bud.

When removing dead or diseased wood, always cut through the healthy tissue below the diseased section. Paint large cuts with a sealing compound such as Bacseal to protect against disease.
 

Three main fruit tree shapes are:
 

Pruning Apple Trees

After initial shaping of apple trees, the only pruning necessary is the removal of excess twiggy growth. Apple trees usually produce fruit on spurs, short stubby growths attached to main branches. They continue producing on the same spurs for a number of years. Pears and Cherry fruit also grow on spurs and require similar treatment.

Pruning Plum Trees

Plum trees also produce fruit on the same spurs for several years. Once shape has been established, they require little pruning. Excessive pruning can over stimulate tree growth at the expense of fruit.

Pruning Peach and Nectarine Trees

These trees flower on new wood made the previous summer. Prune hard to encourage new growth. Otherwise, fruit will be produced further and further out on the branches each year. Don’t remove too many flower buds or the current season’s crop will suffer. Flower buds are plump while growth buds are flatter.

 

Diseases

Diseases are spread by wind or moisture and thrive in humid weather.

Burn any fallen infected leaves or mummified fruit.

Keep the fruit trees in a well ventilated position and prune out the centre to increase air movement. A Copper spray will help prevent disease invading leaves, stems and fruit. But be careful - Copper sprays can damage the leaves of peaches and nectarines.

We hope that you enjoy your fruit trees this season! If you have any specific questions, see our Ask an Expert section and send us an email.