Introduction

As winter approaches, I am considering removing some of our randomly planted fruit trees - of unknown parentage - to plant more modern varieties. We are lucky, we have lots of space. Most city dwellers no longer have quarter acre sections and the luxury of an area set aside for an orchard. But there is hope!

Rootstock

With today’s modern fruit tree varieties, most can be grown among ornamentals in the garden or in pots on patios and decks. This is because the majority of fruit trees are grafted onto dwarf rootstock that is less vigorous, reduces the plant’s height to three metres or less and still gives good quality fruit in abundance. Some rootstock can even enhance disease resistance. Avocados for example, are susceptible to root rot disorders and so are grafted onto a rootstock that has resistance to the disease. Dwarf rootstock enables fruit trees to be grown in large patio pots and tubs, and enables multiple varieties to be grown on one tree – this is especially good where a pollinator is required

Climate

The choice of fruit tree is based on climate – each variety has a favoured climate and environment where optimum fruiting will be achieved. If the climate is less than ideal, fruiting will be reduced. Apples, pears and stonefruit can withstand heavy frosts in winter, but when it comes to blossom time, a late frost can ruin a whole season’s fruiting. If this is the case, plant late maturing varieties rather than early varieties.

Spray

In autumn, all fruit trees will benefit from a clean up spray of Copper and Conqueror Oil. This will control any fungal spores or insect eggs that may over-winter on the tree, and prevents fungus diseases entering any leaf scars left by falling leaves. Repeat clean up sprays after pruning and throughout winter. Apples and pears may have a late infestation of Leaf Roller caterpillar that causes damage to fruit hanging in clusters. A clean-up spray now will reduce the numbers of over-wintering caterpillars.

Pruning

The main aim of pruning is to encourage better crops, to open the frame work of the tree up so that fruit ripen evenly, and to remove weak or diseased growth. There are some fruit trees that require minimal pruning. Plums and citrus are two. Plum trees fruit on new growth and the previous season’s growth. Cut back any strong growing shoots to shape.

For citrus, picking the fruit is all that is required when it comes to pruning. Trees can be cut back lightly to shape at any time of the year. Peaches, nectarines, apricots should be pruned as soon as possible after harvest to reduce the risk of Silver Leaf disease. Fruit forms on the previous season’s growth. Prune branches back by one third. Remove shoots that have fruited in February. Apples and pears can be pruned at any time once leaves have fallen. When pruning, if making cuts larger than 2.5cm in diameter, apply pruning paste or a water based paint to seal the wound and prevent disease entering the tree. Always use sharp tools to prevent bruising the wood as this gives an entry point for diseases.

When establishing fruit trees, regular feeding, training, pruning, and watering will be required. Once established, apply fertiliser in spring and again in late summer. Use a fertiliser high in potash, such as rose fertiliser (potash helps in flower and fruit development), or a specially blended citrus fertiliser. Mulching will benefit all trees – spread liberally around trees in spring and autumn.