Selecting Your Sealant
 

Silicone is used to seal joints between two surfaces. It may be used indoors or outdoors, between almost any surfaces.   To choose the right sealant for the job, first take a close look at the problem you are trying to fix – where is the gap, how big is it, what weather conditions will it face, do I want to paint over it? For first time users, the range of sealants on the market can be quite daunting.    At Mitre 10 however, you’ll find experts on hand to give you the right advice on which sealant to use.

Which Silicone Where? The sealant guide:
 

Window and Glass Sealant 
Uses – Windows, doors, aquariums, light fittings, awnings, refrigerator gaskets, exhaust fans.

Features – Adheres strongly to glass, is flexible and non staining

Bathroom and Tile Sealant

Uses – Virtually all surfaces found in bathrooms, laundries, toilets and kitchens.

Features – Built-in mould and mildew inhibitor, excellent adhesion to most hard surfaces. 
 

Roof and Gutter Sealant

Uses – Guttering, downpipes, aluminium and galvanised iron roofing, sheet metal and garage doors.

Features – Permanent, flexible, waterproof seal, long working time for difficult applications, won’t eat away at surrounding materials.

Brick and Concrete Sealant

Uses – Concrete, mortar, stone, fibro, marble, granite, slate and plasterboard.

Features – Permanent, flexible, waterproof seal, long working time for difficult applications, won’t eat away at surrounding materials.

Paintable Sealant

Uses – Window frames, door frames, timber, masonry

Features – Cleans up in water, ideal for all house frames which require painting. Use between pavers to prevent weeds growing through.

Tools Required
 

	Caulking Gun
	Masking Tape
	Filling knife
	Turpentine
	Rag (damp)
	Utility knife

Surface Preparation
 

Making sure that the surface you are going to silicone is clean and well prepared is essential to achieving good adhesion and a smooth bead.
 

	Clean off any dust or dirt particles with water. Do not use soap.
	Using a utility knife, remove any remnants of old silicone. New silicone will not adhere at all to cured silicone. After you have removed most of the old silicone with a blade (being careful not to scratch the surface), clean any remaining residue with a mild abrasive or rubbing alcohol
	If the surface is mildewed, use a concentrated mildew killer after removing the old silicone.

Step 1
 

Make sure that the area you want to silicone is clean of any debris. If filling between glass and aluminium, use masking tape and mask off to ensure a clean straight bead of silicone and to keep silicone off the glass.   Take the tube of silicone and, using a utility knife (held at a 45 degree angle), cut the end from the tapered nozzle. The farther away from the end of the nozzle you cut, the bigger the bead of silicone that will be available.

Step 2 
 

Turn the handle of the caulking gun so that it faces up. Pull the handle all the way back and put the tube of silicone in the gun. Turn the handle down and push the handle until it stops against the end of the tube.
 

Step 3
 

There are two ways to silicone. You can “push” the bead of silicone ahead of the nozzle or you can “pull” the bead behind the nozzle.

Using the method you prefer, apply the silicone sparingly to the joints to be sealed. Use constant pressure on the trigger to ensure an even flow of the silicone.

Seal the entire length.

When you are done, make sure that you turn the handle up so that the pressure on the tube is released.
 

Step 4
 

Ensure that the silicone bead is unbroken. If it isn’t, smooth with the filling knife. Remove masking tape.
 

Mitre 10 Handy Hints
 

Silicone has a shelf life of one to two years. To ensure that your silicone is fresh enough to work properly, test it on a non-porous surface before you begin your project. Make sure the silicone sticks, comes out of the cartridge smoothly and most importantly, that it cures in the time it is supposed to.