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When choosing to build a timber fence, a property owner can achieve a satisfying result from their own handiwork.
This is a step by step guide on how to build a simple post/rail and paling fence. However, it can be adapted to build a fence of any design depending on your enthusiasm. So grab your confidence with both hands and let's get started.
Tips
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Check with local council and your neighbour for any guidelines, restrictions or regulations before you start your fencing project.
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Consider fencing design and it's suitability to your home, privacy issues, boundary definitions and of course, cost.
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If using cut posts, always put the uncut end in the ground. Treat or paint all cut ends of the timber post, rails and palings.
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The use of power tools makes the completion of projects much easier, but appropriate safety equipment when using power tools is highly recommended. Ear protection, eye wear and sturdy footwear should be considered the minimum requirement when using powertools. Always use a residual current device when using electric power tools.
Materials and Tools
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Materials |
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Palings:
150 x 19mm x 1.8m H3.2 Treated Rough Sawn Radiata OR
150 x 25mm x 1.8m H3.2 Treated Rough Sawn Radiata
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Posts:
100 x 75mm H4 Treated Rough Sawn OR
100 x 100mm H4 Treated Rough Sawn
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Rails:
75 x 50mm x 4.8m H3.2 Treated Rough Sawn Radiata OR
100 x 50mm x 4.8m H3.2 Treated Rough Sawn Radiata
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Concrete: Either builders mix and cement at a ratio of 6:1 or "Quikcrete" |
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Nails: Galvanised flat head 100mm long (to fix rails) |
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Nails: Galvanised flat head 75mm long (to fix palings) |
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Tools |
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Spade |
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Post hole borer - 200mm diameter (optional) |
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Hammer and Sledge hammer |
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Spirit level and spirit level for string line |
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Builder's square |
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String line |
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Pencil |
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Handsaw and Circular Saw |
Illustration 1. (Click for a larger image.)

Step 1: Set Out Fence Posts
Firstly, determine your property boundary. This is made simple by finding the white, square boundary pegs.
Establish a boundary line. 50 mm inside your boundary, lay out a string line attached to pegs. Position the line to indicate where the front of the posts will be (see Illustration 1).
Fence Post Set Out
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Select the end post positions. At each end of the fence dig a hole with a spade or post hole borer to a depth of 1/3 the fence height.
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Clean out loose material from base. For example, an 1800mm high fence would normally use 2400mm posts set 600mm into the ground (see Illustration 2).
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Gate posts should be set deeper into the ground by an extra 100mm. Posts in high wind locations or unstable ground conditions should also be set an extra 100mm into the ground.
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Have tools, nails, braces, pegs ready.
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Fix braces to ground peg with single nail, to allow brace to pivot (see Illustration 1).
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Tack nails to posts so they can be easily removed later. Check vertical level before adding concrete for final set.
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Mix concrete (6:1 Ratio builders mix to cement or pre mixed "Quickcrete"). Add water to create a stiff mix.
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Pour the concrete around the posts carefully.
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Compact the mix with a piece of wood to remove any air pockets.
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Check post alignment and vertical level. Adjust to maintain proper alignment.
Illustration 2: Set Fence Posts

Step 2: Align and Set Intermediate Posts
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Set a string ling at the top of the two end posts. This can be used as a guide to set posts at the correct height. Alternatively, they can be cut to height later.
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Measure the string base line with a tape or stick to the required post centre.
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Equally spread the intermediate posts along the string line. Posts should be a maximum of 2.3m apart, measured between centres. (See Illustration 1).
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Brace posts using temporary rails. Check alignment and vertical level on two adjacent faces using a spirit level (see Illustration 1).
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Mix concrete or bags of "Quikcrete" and pour carefully around posts.
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Post alignment and vertical level can be adjusted up to 5 minutes after concrete has been poured.
Illustration 3: Stringline

Step 3: Fixing the Rails
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Leave the concrete to set for two days before you fix the rails to the posts.
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Two rails are sufficient for fences up to 1200mm high. Use three rails for fences above 1200mm high. As well as providing the necessary support to prevent sagging, the third rail stops palings from warping and gives a better finish.
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Use 100 x 50mm H3.2 treated rails. For smaller spans use 75 x 50mm H3.2 treated rails.
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Rails can be fixed either between the posts (see Illustration 4) or to the face of the post (see Illustration 5), depending on fence style.
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For maximum strength, place rails on adjacent edges of posts and also with the narrowest edge of the rail uppermost (facing up) to prevent sagging.
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Use a string line guide for rail alignment and a builders square to check for squareness as you go. (See Illustration 3)
For between post rails - Rails should be measured at ground level, squared and cut to length. Fix to posts with three galvanised flat head nails 100mm long (see Illustration 4).
For face fixed rails - select a length of rail that can span three posts. Fix with two galvanised flat head nails (see Illustration 5).
Remember measure twice, cut once.
Illustration 4: Fixing Rails Between Posts

Illustration 5: Face Fixed Rails

Step 4: Fix the Palings
Set string line at the height of the top of the palings. This can be done by fixing the first and last paling temporarily at the proper height and then setting the string line between them. Use a level to check the vertical alignment of the palings. Butt palings together as there will be shrinkage. Fix with galvanised flat head nails that are three times as long as paling thickness. (See Illustration 6)
Illustration 6: Palings

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